Frequently Asked Questions
Do you have a question about us or what we do? Take a look through these questions and if we haven't answered it here contact us.
Information about Labradoodles and Goldendoodles
- What is a Doodle?
- What is the nature of a Doodle?
- What are the differences between a Labradoodle and a Goldendoodle?
- How are Doodles with children?
- How much exercise does a Doodle need?
- I heard that Doodles are hypoallergenic, is that right?
- Do Doodles shed, and how much?
Hearty K9s related
- How have you fed the pups and how do I feed mine at home?
- What kind of treats do you suggest?
- What if we bring the pup home and after a while we realize that my allergies are being very irritated by the pup?
- What if I want to breed the pup I buy in the future?
- How do you come up with names for the pups?
Preparing for your pup
- How does our choosing process work?
- What do I need to do while I wait for my puppy?
- What do I need to buy before I bring the puppy home?
- What do I need to bring with me when I pick up the pup?
- Homework: What books or videos do I need?
- What do you have for some tidbits of advice?
What is a Doodle?
When we talk about Doodles we're referring to both Labradoodles and Goldendoodles together. Generally we do this when we're refering to common traits, natures or even the dogs or pups themselves. When we talk about Labradoodles or Goldendoodles individually we're usually talking about their differences.
What is the nature of a Doodle?
Doodles are a combination of a uniquely hilarious personality and an amazingly loyal friend. They love to be with you, whether out jogging, camping, reading a book, or watching TV. They long to serve and please you, and they crave your approval.
Doodles are sociable, loving, intuitive, and train easily, but they are VERY intelligent. It is imperative that Doodles are actively trained and stimulated regularly in the first year, or they use their creative minds and become naughty and destructive.
They are very people-orientated, and want to be with you. They do not do well being locked up, or socially deprived for regular long intervals when the family has gone to work. They also must know undoubtedly that they are NOT the pack leader of the family. You need to be the boss.
What are the differences between a Labradoodle and a Goldendoodle?
Coats are generally more curly and longer in the Goldendoodles. Statistically they are less likely to shed but their coats are more maintenance. Labradoodle coats vary more from a slight wave to curly. Their coats don't become as long and they are less maintenance.
Genetic temperament of the pups depends more on the parents as individuals than it does comparing Goldendoodles to Labradoodles.
How are Doodles with children?
Doodles are wonderful with children, although they need lots of time and their space to 'veg'. Every puppy goes through a mouthing period where they may nip. This must be addressed immediately by closing their mouth with your hand and saying a firm "NO".
Never leave the training of your pup as the responsibility of your child. Supervise as your family works daily with him or her to keep consistency. Communicate with your family how you will discipline unwanted behavior. Be consistent in how you teach him or her tricks and therefore aid your pup in learning even faster.
How much exercise does a Doodle need?
Doodles need exercise but not an excessive amount. Just as important as their physical exercise, they need mental stimulation and training. If your Doodle is overly-energetic she or he may require more mental stimulation.
I heard that Doodles are hypoallergenic, is that right?
There is no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog. It depends on the person's specific allergies. A person may be allergic to hair, dander, or perhaps even the dog's saliva.
Do Doodles shed, and how much?
See my Shedding or Non-shedding section in Understanding Doodles.
How have you fed the pups and how do I feed mine at home?
At 3.5 to 4.5 weeks old the pups are introduced to softened puppy kibble. Normally by the time they're 5 to 6 weeks old they're crunching hard kibble and do not need it softened anymore. The pups are given free choice here, but that is not recommended for house training.
I suggest that you feed your pup 3 times a day until about 8 to 9 months old, or until yours doesn't want that middle feeding anymore, then twice a day until your pup is about 3 years old. From 3 to 8 years old once a day is often sufficient, then after 8 years old go back to twice a day. This, of course, will vary with each dog, but it is a basic guideline.
It's good practice for the lowest human member of the family pack to feed the dog (perhaps the person who the dog often dominates). It's proper etiquette to have the pup/dog sit and wait until you put the bowl of food down and give the release command that they can eat. It is also important to allow the dog to eat their food after you have finished your own meal. These are big things in the dog world that help them see you as alpha.
We'll give you the name of the puppy food your pup is on when you come and choose your pup. We suggest that you feed puppy food until the pup's first birthday, then slowly change your pup over to a quality adult formula.
What kind of treats do you suggest?
I'm personally not a big treat fan, as I find using my voice and body language much easier and handier than fumbling for treats. If you prefer to work with treats, and/or your dog is very treat orientated, then I suggest just using their kibble as a treat. This is especially a concern early on when a new treat may bother your pup's stomach. Sometimes a brand of dog food will also make treats which are similar to their kibble and so may be easier on your pup.
What if we bring the pup home and after a while we realize that my allergies are being very irritated by the pup?
As soon as you think there may be problem, please contact us. We'll suggest a few things to try, and if nothing works, we'll take the pup back. Then you can either try a different pup when there's an appropriate one available, or we'll discuss a refund (normally minus the deposit).
What if I want to breed the pup I buy in the future?
It's best for all involved if you state your intentions of breeding your pup from the start. That way I can help you choose the qualities that would be best to create another generation of quality doodles and keep the standards high. What we ask is that you wait until your pup is at least 2 to 3 years old. Your dog should have a clean bill of health, have it's hips x-rayed and eyes tested. As a courtesy we ask you to contact us to let us know the test results and your intentions.
How do you come up with names for the pups?
We name the pups here to make it more personal and fun for us. But, of course, when people choose a puppy and adopt it they normally choose their own name.
How does our choosing process work?
There are times when people leave deposits for a pup as much as a year in advance, so I do encourage folks who have recently committed to wait for a pup from Hearty K9s to start the adoption process as soon as possible. Most of the time the wait for a pup is not very long but it depends on pup availability and the number of previously approved applicants.
The choosing process is actually very easy to complete and can be finalized fairly quickly in some cases. We've outlined these steps so you can be prepared and relaxed the day you come to choose your pup.
These are the nine steps involved in the choosing process:
- Fill out the adoption form fully and submit it to Hearty K9s when you have committed to adopt a pup from us.
- Wait for the adoption application to be approved. We will contact you for further information during this time.
- Pay the deposit and consequently get placed on the waiting list. Previous applicants get 1st choice so it's important to get your application for adoption in to us early.
- Read the books, or watch the videos, we've recommended for you. This is a very necessary and required step. The sooner you start the better for everyone involved.
- When the litter is 6-7 weeks old we'll contact you if the spots for the pups are not already filled by previous applicants. At this time we'll make an appointment with you to come and choose your pup. If you're not able to come during your alloted time you can choose your pup by communicating through emails, photos, and phone calls. Depending on applicants' schedules, and how many pups are being chosen that day, there can be limited flexibility in scheduling your time slot.
- Bring your list of questions with you to the appointment and review the order of preferences you have for a pup before you arrive. Review your copy of the adoption form you submitted to us to determine if your preferences have changed in any way. Inform us of any changes if you haven't done so already.
- You have the option to pay the balance owing for your pup on the "choosing day" appointment with a personal cheque as long as it is at least a week before you pick up the pup. Only cash, certified cheque or bank draft is accepted on the day of pick up. I do prefer if you pay ahead as there is less to deal with on the big day when you take your pup home, but the choice is yours.
- Also bring your calendars so that after you choose your pup we can arrange a day and time for you to come pick up your pup.
- This is the day when you get to choose your pup. Because you've followed the previous steps you're now prepared for what to expect and can enjoy the time choosing your companion. We'll also let you know what kind of food to buy for your puppy and when to book the next shots.
We've also found that we need to provide some important clarifications so that the choosing experience works out the best for both you and your pup.
- Your deposit is good for "a" pup from Hearty K9s. For example: if something comes up and you're not able to take a pup when planned your deposit is kept for another time when the timing is right and there is a good match for you. Your deposit is also transferable to an approved home/family if your plans change that much.
- I post updated photos of pups for your viewing pleasure; not to make a choice before you meet them, or at least are informed of their personalities. I take many photos in order to get a suitable one for the website, in both pose and quality of the photo. This is a very involved, time-consuming task and many times a pup just doesn't photograph well in the amount of time I can give. Since these photos are just a fraction of a moment in time please do not make a judgment about a pup if their expression is perfect or not... it has little or nothing to do with their true character.
- When the pups are younger I do not comment on personalities since they're just budding at 4 weeks and are just blooming at 7 weeks. A lot of a pup's personality also depends on how they react to our socialization program and even more on how you mold your pup once the pup is in your hands.
What do I need to do while I wait for my puppy?
- Read books on puppy training. We recommend "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the Monks of New Skete.
- Find a good vet and/or let your vet know that you are soon getting a new puppy. Make a list of questions you may have for them and write down any questions your vet may have for me.
- Set up a vet appointment for second shots. The pup will be 9-10 weeks old when this is required.
- Find a quality obedience class and ask the requirements to be able to start (i.e. had their 2nd shots, are over 3-4 months old, etc.)
What do I need to buy before I bring the puppy home?
- "The Art of Raising a Puppy", as a manual to get ready.
- A kennel that is large enough for the expected adult weight. You can put a box in the back when the pup is little.
- A leash 6 ft long is usually required for obedience class (a puppy collar is provided with pup).
- Bowls for food and water.
- Puppy Kibble: ask us what your pup is eating here. If you don't want to feed your pup the food we use make sure you get a sample from us so that you can change your pup's diet gradually.
- A soft chew toy, a rope toy, a Nylabone and a Kong are some basic favourites for your pup to play with and chew on.
- Bitter apple or other spray to protect your electrical cords or other tempting things from your teething puppy.
- A blanket for in your pup's kennel.
- Optional: a camera to capture those cute puppy moments that slip away so fast!
What do I need to bring with me when I pick up the pup?
- I recommend that you bring someone with you to hold the pup, so as not to distract the driver.
- A towel or blanket for your pup to lie on.
- A chew toy, in case your pup feels like gnawing on something.
- Some paper towel and maybe a deodorizer in case the pup gets carsick.
- A kennel if you are planning on stopping on the way home to shop, etc. Otherwise your pup would rather lie on your lap or beside you.
- A leash.
- A list of questions you've been thinking of to ask me. Always remember, I'm only an email or phone call away.
- If final payment is being made on the pick up day, we would appreciate cash or a certified cheque. You can pay by personal cheque 2 weeks prior to pick up as well.
Homework: What books or videos do I need?
Please be aware that we do require homework to be completed before you arrive to pick up your pup. The following books and/or videos are great resources. As it is with raising a kid, you can't find any one book that will give you all the answers.
The Art of Raising a Puppy and How to Raise the Perfect Dog; one, or preferably both, of these books are a must-read before you get your puppy from Hearty K9s.
These books/videos will give you a great foundation to start your training with your new pup. Whether we've had a dog all of our lives, or if we're newbies, we can all learn.
- The Art of Raising a Puppy
by the Monks of New Skete. This is a basic, down to earth, easy to read book. It will help you in many ways you may have never thought of to get a great head start before you get your pup. This book has also been the source of inspiration behind my puppy program. For adult dogs, the Monks have a great book called, How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend
.
- How to Raise the Perfect Dog: Through Puppyhood and Beyond
by Cesar Millan. This book came out in October and is an excellent resource on raising a well-balanced pup. I've learned a lot from Cesar Millan, both through his books and his TV show on National Geographic, "The Dog Whisperer". By using his theories and practices I've made a huge impact on my pack of dogs with the result of creating a better life together for all of us. Other valuable books he has written are, A Member of the Family
, Cesar's Way
and Be the Pack Leader
.
- Puppies For Dummies
by Sarah Hodgson (a reference for the Rest of Us!) This is a practical guide for anyone choosing a puppy and its theories go along well with the Monks. Sarah Hodgson also has another book called, PuppyPerfect
.
What do you have for some tidbits of advice?
This advice is gathered through reading I've done and experiences I and/or my clients have shared. I share them with you to help you establish a good relationship with your dog and perhaps to answer some questions in advance.
- We've found with most pups, that because doodles are very smart, the "gentle" approach to training, nor the very strict training, works as well as the middle of the road. Use a firm voice with commands and a bit harsher voice with reprimands. Always give lots of praise when your pup does well.
- Do not let the pup chew on your hand. Always say "NO" with a firmly harsh voice, give them something that they are allowed to chew on and then praise with a high voice. This goes with any nipping, which is part of puppy-hood, so it's best to keep on top of that right away. You'll have less trouble later.
- Place a hanging bell of some sort by your back door and ring it with the pup's paw every time you take them out to "do their business." This will help the quieter dogs to find a way to let you know they gotta go, as they'll learn to ring the bell!
- Even as a little pup, before you pet them, make them sit down nicely. Then give them lots of attention and praise.
- Have friends over and expose your pup to lots of different situations, especially in the first 6 months. Prepare your visitors to wait until the pup has settled and sat down on command before they get a pet from the strangers.
- Leave the leash on the pup in the house so that you can catch them and also get after them quicker.
- Do not give a pup or dog a command that you cannot make them follow up on, so leave them on a leash. You'll be able to haul them in for a "Come!" with lots of praise!
- Tie the pup to your belt loop if you're busy with other things, and can't watch them, so they don't sneak off to mess in your home. Otherwise, put them in their kennel.
- When returning home don't run to the kennel to greet your pup and get all excited. Ignore the pup for the first minute and then quietly let them out. This helps prevent separation anxiety.
- Obedience training is a crucial part of your dog knowing that you are alpha. Through the stories I hear from my past clients, professional obedience training in a class has opened their eyes to many different techniques that they didn't get from reading books. It also exposes the pup to a different environment where they need to focus on you despite the distractions.
- Some believe that a pup can't be obedience trained until they are 6 months old. I've found that the more you do with them the first 6 months, the better. You can start all your commands early. Remember their attention span is small, and you should not expect perfection, but the introduction of the idea is huge. You can perfect later.
- I do want the people who adopt my pups to be responsible and raise well-behaved, good representations of the breed. I'm not a trainer but I am learning. If you're having trouble with your pup, please let me know earlier than later. I may be able to help you directly or help you find someone, or some resource, that can.
This advice is gathered through reading I've done and experiences I and/or my clients have shared. I share them with you to help you establish a good relationship with your dog and perhaps to answer some questions in advance.